Saturday, November 28, 2015

Loi Krathong!

     Last Wednesday, the 25th, was the full moon of the twelfth month according to the traditional Thai lunar calendar (More on the Thai calendar in the near future...over here the year is 2558. Not sure why but I intend to find out.). That meant one very important thing – Loi Krathong! A traditional festival dating back to the mid-13th century, Loi Krathong typically falls on the evening of the full moon in November according to our Western calendar. The festival is said to have originated from an ancient ritual which paid respect to the water spirits. Loi (ลอย) means “to float” and krathong (กระทง) roughly translates to “floating crown”. A traditional krathong is made from a slice of a banana tree trunk, banana leaves that are impressive and elaborately folded, and is adorned with incense sticks, a candle, and a coin as an offering to the spirits. Thais launch their krathong into a river, lake, or a pond while making a wish as they do so. This symbolizes the release of anything old, negative, or pent-up. There's something quite impactful about that notion. Just letting go.

Origami krathongs folded to imitate lotus flowers.  Mine didn't turn out as well.



     Modern krathongs can often be made of bread or Styrofoam. A bread krathong – shaped like a turtle – will decompose after a day or two and is meant to be eaten by fish. However, Styrofoam and banana trunk krathongs will pollute the waters and take years to decompose with all of their ornaments. The irony of paying respect to these particular spirits by contaminating the very waters they honor is lost on most Thais.

Unfortunately Thailand is a poverty-stricken nation and an opportunity to take money
that someone has freely parted with does not go without notice.
     This year I was lucky enough to not only be in Thailand for Loi Krathong, but was actually invited to participate in the festivities. This included a small parade complete with nine floats, a marching band, the wearing of traditional garments, and a five mile route to our krathong launching point – Nong Han Lake. As I was attempting to take my place in line towards the back of the parade, I felt a sudden jerk on my arm and was abruptly yanked to the first row of marchers. It happened so violently that I still don't know who grasped me and put me in place. I like to think that the Thais could sense my experience and expertise on all things Mardi Gras, but it's much more likely that they just wanted a foremost white face for the news cameras.

Here we are with our Mamas and krathongs...
...and dressed in traditional Isan silk garments.

     What follows are a few photographs that describe my night of Loi Krathong 2015...








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